Family Eurotrip Part 2- Deutschland, ja!

First stop in Munich: the world famous Hofbräuhaus. Not only is it home to one of Munich’s oldest breweries, this is seriously the largest restaurant I’ve ever been to. We walked into the massive dining hall on the first floor and were greeted by wait staff in lederhosen and a full German band. I was in heaven! We enjoyed lots of really amazing food and beer and of course, made a trip to the gift shop for a one liter stein for Christopher.

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On our first full day in Munich, we went to the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site. Of course, it was an incredibly somber and sad experience, but I think everyone should visit a concentration camp if given the opportunity. It’s so important to remember what happened during the Holocaust and make sure it never happens again. We learned that Dachau was one of the first concentration camps and unlike the majority of later camps, the public knew it existed. It was advertised in the paper as a labor camp that rehabilitated people who didn’t agree with the government. Although people didn’t know specifically what was happening at Dachau, they knew they didn’t want to end up there. The site included specific memorials for Jewish, Catholic, Protestant and Russian Orthodox prisoners. In addition to Jewish prisoners, Dachau had many Germans who were communist or socialist, Roman Catholic priests from Poland, and an unknown number of captured Russian POWs. Walking around the grounds and remembering what happened there, it’s impossible to not be moved and saddened by all the lives that were lost and families that were affected by the Holocaust.

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Our second day in Munich (and the last day of the vacation), John and Erin went to the BMW Museum in the morning while Christopher, mom and I walked around Munich on our own. We went to a farmer’s market and checked out a few churches. Christopher went up the 303 steps to the top of St. Peter’s Church to get some awesome photos of the city while mom and I waited to meet our tour guide below (plus our legs were going to fall off by this point in the trip). The five of us met up again and went on an awesome walking tour of the city. Our tour guide took us to specific sites around the city that were significant to the rise of the Nazi party and the beginning of WWII. We learned that Hitler gave many speeches at Hofbräuhaus and it was a big Nazi hang out. I thought back to our awesome table in the second floor bay window our first night and was hoping that wasn’t Hitler’s usual spot, and luckily it wasn’t. We saw the SS headquarters and a large town square where a lot of Nazi rallies were held. Each person was required to do the Nazi salute when they were walking by this building; guards were stationed nearby to make sure everyone was doing this. But the people of Munich discovered a back alley, aptly nicknamed Dodger’s Alley, and chose to walk this way to avoid saluting. Our guide said that Munichers don’t like to talk about their city’s dark history, but they are really proud of Dodger’s Alley (photo with the gold line on the street) and their small acts of defiance. We wrapped up the trip with a walk to the English Gardens and dinner at Ratskeller in Marienplatz…. and a selfie photo shoot.

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The next day, Erin and John flew back to Boston 😦 But the trip wasn’t done yet for Mom; she joined Christopher and I in Helsingborg!

Family Eurotrip Part 1- hashtagwheninrome

On August 30th, Christopher and I flew to Rome to meet up with my mom, sister Erin, and her boyfriend John. They had spent the previous few days in Paris and then we joined them for the next two cities: Rome and Munich!

Rome was huge, beautiful and full of really amazing food. My only regret was that we had gelato 3 times- we should have gotten it much more but there was no room left in any one’s stomachs.

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For our first day, we took a train about 30 minutes outside of Rome to Ostia Antica. The archaeological ruins date back to the 4th century B.C. and most of the remains that we saw were from the 3rd century B.C. I was astonished at the complexity of their society; there were bars, shops, a 3 story apartment complex, a coliseum, a town Forum along with a lot of houses and bathhouses with really intricate mosaic tile floors. Also, I didn’t even know this while we were touring the site, but the oldest known synagogue in Europe was unearthed in the 1950s. The town’s population peaked in the 2nd and 3rd centuries A.D. at about 100,000 people. Despite is seeming huge when we were walking around, that would be a lot of people for a city its size. Afterwards, we headed to the Mediterranean to have some lunch on the water and relax.

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The next day was pretty rainy so we had a lazy morning and then went to check out the Trevi Fountain and do the Ponte Sisto stroll. It was actually pretty unfortunate because a lot of the sites were under construction while we were there, including the Trevi Fountain. I guess we’ll just have to go back and see them all again! All of the piazzas were so beautiful and it seemed there was something ancient and amazing around every corner! Once we finished the Ponte Sisto stroll and crossed the bridge, we did some more exploring and stopped for some drinks. On our way back, we stumbled upon this magnificent white building, which we later found out was Altare della Patria. Every day kind of runs together in terms of food, but I believe this is the day I had black truffle risotto for dinner. It was by far the greatest meal of the trip.

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Saving the best for last!

Saving the best for last!

On day 3, we went to Vatican City to tour the Vatican Museum (3rd largest museum in the world!), the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica. We took a guided tour, which was excellent, since this museum would take weeks to go through otherwise. There was just room upon room of sculptures, paintings, tapestries and anything else you can imagine. I’ve never seen so much marble in my life! We learned that all of the pieces of art included backgrounds of the cities they were made in. For example, the Roman art included the Pantheon in the background, which was never in Jerusalem. Meanwhile. the tapestries that were made in Brussels featured Gothic architecture. Next up was the Sistine Chapel… I can’t even describe it to you but if you ever get the chance to go to Rome, you need to see it. It’s incredible! Finally, we ended the tour in St. Peter’s Basilica. It is MASSIVE!! It’s home to Pietà, Michelangelo’s most famous sculpture. There were little chapels in every corner of the place! Some had tombs of royalty who were persecuted for their religion, some had mummified popes (which you could see through glass and that was actually pretty creepy). There were no paintings in the buildings, only very large mosaics, so you could photograph everything!

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During our metro ride home, a couple of very small kids (probably between 7 and 12) abruptly got on the train and pushed a lot of us around. My initial thought was, wow, that was rude but I had no idea what was going on. At the next stop, the kids got off the train and a young man kicked something off the train as he was getting off. He picked it up and turned back to the train asking many times, “Is this anyone’s wallet?” At first I thought it was Christopher’s, but his wallet was in my mom’s purse. At the last second before the doors closed, a man finally recognized it and took it back. He looked baffled and an Italian woman kept saying, “control it, control it” (still don’t know what that means) and the man opened his wallet to find all of the cash stolen. When we got off the train, we were all discussing what had happened. Apparently, one of the kids put their hand on Christopher’s arm and starting moving their hand down towards his pocket. Luckily, his had was holding onto his phone and when he gave them the evil eye, they moved on. I had heard about the gypsies and pick pockets in Rome, (that’s why you’ll see me sporting my “Just try and rob me” pose in every picture with my bag in front of me and my hand securely on it) but it was crazy to actually witness it.

On our final day in Rome, we toured the Roman Forum, Palantine Hill and the Colosseum. Our guide explained that modern Rome was built up around these ruins and we had to go to deeper “layers, like a lasagna” to see what archaeologists had discovered. Once Christianity took hold and the Roman Empire fell, basically anything pagan related was destroyed and the parts were reused by ordinary people to build their homes or sell to rich families. The only Roman Empire era buildings to survive were later designated as churches and could therefore not be harmed (this is why the Pantheon is still standing today). Next we went to Palantine Hill, where the emperors built their palaces. Each new emperor would either add on to the previous one’s palace or built an entirely new one. One emperor in particular built himself a huge palace with three swimming pools and his own private stadium where he would watch gladiators fight. Our last major landmark was the Colosseum. The building is an architectural feat and the it’s size just takes your breath away. We learned that people had their favorite gladiators and would bet on them, so often times gladiators would be taken from the arena so they wouldn’t die in front of the audience. There was a complex network of rooms and corridors underneath the stage (which is now exposed) which is where animals and gladiators were kept, taken care of by doctors, and generally died from infections from their injuries. Crazy!

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We had such an awesome time in Rome! I’d  be lying if I said I didn’t miss the sites, the food, and most of all, the company. Next stop- Munich!

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Our Trip to Turkey

As we were boarding the plane to Turkey, I was thinking to myself that only a three and a half hour flight and an hour bus ride could get us from a city with the same latitude as Ketchikan, Alaska to the coastal town of Side on the Mediterranean Sea. The ease of travel within Europe will never cease to amaze me. Upon our arrival in Side, we were greeted by Christopher’s parents who were waiting in our hotel lobby. They were leaving for Sweden the next morning so we had a very quick visit which included us getting lots of food, sunscreen and other goodies from them!

View from our hotel room

View from our hotel room

Side Beachwalk

Side Beachwalk

 

 

 

 

 

We woke up to the 4:30a.m. call to prayer at the nearby mosque and a beautiful sea view from our room. After breakfast on the balcony, we headed to the beach. In a lot of the beach cities in Turkey (and perhaps elsewhere), if you agree to have lunch at a particular restaurant, you can use the sun beds on that part of the beach all day. And so the relaxing and eating commenced.

Nothing's more relaxing than a beer on the beach

Nothing’s more relaxing than a beer on the beach

 

Our spot on the beach every day

Our spot on the beach every day

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christopher’s family suggested we go to nearby restaurant called Golden Star. When they had visited Side more than a decade before, they had become friends with a server named James and they had run into him again on this trip. After all that time, they still recognized each other! On one of these trips, they had given James a CD and he still had the CD, 13 years later. When we went to Golden Star, Christopher spotted James right away. James showed me the CD and some pictures of Christopher and his family when he was about 15 years old. My first thought was, Wow, 15 year old Christopher was HOT (he still is)! Fifteen year old me would have totally told my girlfriends that I thought he was cute in hopes that they would tell his friends and then his friends would tell him 😉 Of course, my second thought was, how cool is it that James still has this CD? It’s really pretty amazing.

Not a bad view

Not a bad view

Amazing sand sea turtle!

Amazing sand sea turtle!

 

 

 

 

 

The next day, we left the beach early to check out downtown Side. This is what I had been waiting for- some ancient ruins! We saw the Temple of Apollo, the remains of an amphitheater and what appeared to be another nearby ancient structure. Downtown was also full of restaurants and stores where you could by almost anything. This was a great opportunity to see Christopher’s haggling skills. He found some white Converse All-Stars and I found a pair of turquoise sandals. Apparently, the salesman thought these Converses were worth 95 Turkish lira ($47.50USD). Well, that just wasn’t going to happen. After about 5 minutes, we ended up paying 80 Turkish lira ($40USD) for both pairs of shoes. Success!

The Temple of Apollo

The Temple of Apollo

Outside of the amphitheater

Outside of the amphitheater

 

 

 

 

 

Some ancient ruins

Some ancient ruins

This looks like an ancient ruins graveyard

This looks like an ancient ruins graveyard

 

One really old door...

One really old door…

We aren't sure what this is, but it counts as ancient ruins

We aren’t sure what this is, but it counts as ancient ruins

 

 

 

 

 

 

Downtown Side

Downtown Side

I don’t want to bore you with all the details of our days (lay out, take a swim, read, play cards, repeat) so I’ll relay all of the really important information; everything we ate. Before almost every meal, we had delicious Turkish bread with tzatziki sauce and a Mediterranean tomato salsa. Seriously, this bread is what dreams are made of. Christopher, not surprisingly, had steak almost every night and it was always very delicious. I had a little bit of everything; lamb skewers, doner kebab, a burrito, meatballs, tortellini in a gorgonzola cream sauce. One night, after having a large burrito, I spotted the first dessert menu I had seen the entire trip. On it? Baklava. It didn’t matter that I was in pain I was so full. What kind of dessert loving woman would I be if I didn’t try the Turkish baklava?? Needless to say, I was extra full that night, but it was a great decision.

Turkish bread

Turkish bread

One of our many food fests

One of our many food fests

 

 

 

 

 

Downtown Side in the distance

Downtown Side in the distance

Gotta represent Ohio!!

Gotta represent Ohio!!

 

 

 

 

Turkish baklava! nomnomnom

Turkish baklava! nomnomnom

During our trip, I was constantly in awe of Turkey’s beauty. Not only was the Mediterranean breathtaking, as expected, there was a beautiful mountain range to the east of the city. I won’t pretend I had a clue about Turkey’s geography before I arrived, but I wasn’t expecting mountains. We also came across some of the most beautiful flowers I have ever seen. The colors were so rich, the petals were bursting with tropical pigments. I was also impressed that all these flowers survive in such a hot climate. I may have been a little jealous since I have a 50% success rate of keeping flowers alive in our apartment.

This photo probably doesn't do these flowers justice

This photo probably doesn’t do these flowers justice

Gorgeous sunset!

Gorgeous sunset!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I could get used to this...

I could get used to this…

Beautiful mountains in the distance

Beautiful mountains in the distance

 

 

 

These flowers were my favorite of the trip

These flowers were my favorite of the trip

Before we knew it, Friday night had rolled around. It was our last night in Side and Turkish night at the Golden Star. In addition to our amazing dinner, we also had some amazing entertainment. There was a great belly dancer and Jimmy, one of James’ coworkers, who juggled bottles lit on fire.  Things got a little PG-13 with Christopher and a couple of the other guys sitting in the audience when she pulled them up on stage. I have video proof, but they’ll never make it on this blog.

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turkish night

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jimmy juggling on Turkish night!

Jimmy juggling on Turkish night!

On our last day, we went to the mosque near our hotel. It was surrounded by a beautiful garden and a gazebo and had marble steps leading up to the entrance. The entire building was so intricately and and colorfully designed. We weren’t dressed appropriately, so we couldn’t take a look inside but I imagine it was also very beautiful.

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As we took the bus ride back to the airport, I watched the mountains pass by and reflected on our amazing week. This will certainly be a trip I won’t soon forget!

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Danish sausages, Swedish beer and Turkish vacations

Not too long ago, most of my Minneapolis friends, Christopher and I were at Dangerous Man Brewing Co. (someone drink a chocolate milk stout for me!) and the topic of how expensive Sweden is came up. Some of my friends were shocked when Christopher said it was $30 to get a burger in a restaurant. I can assure you, he was not joking. Sweden is expensive!! Although, you’re all getting seriously ripped off on your cell phone plans.

On the weekends, we’re always looking for fun stuff to do that won’t break the bank. Last week, I did some research and found out that Helsingborgs Bryggeri (Helsingborg’s Brewery) was celebrating their 3rd anniversary with an open house! Success!! Something fun and free! I thought I was pretty sweet with my google skills, until I walked into the kitchen and realized there was a full page ad for the open house on the front cover of a weekly newspaper we get. Oh well, the ad was in Swedish so I needed my google search anyway.

We started the day in Denmark for one of Christopher’s friend’s birthday. It was so nice to meet some of Christopher’s friends and walk around Helsingør in the sunshine (we had several rainy days before the weekend). We couldn’t resist getting Danish sausages on the ferry ride back. I can’t describe how amazing they are other than I could eat them everyday.

Danish sausages

Danish sausages

Next we went to the brewery! I was pretty pumped to check out where Helsingborg’s award winning beer is brewed. Plus, it kind of reminded me of being in Minneapolis. Some of you may be surprised to know that before I moved to Minneapolis I would have probably answered the question ‘What’s your favorite beer?’ with “Uhhhh, Bud Light I guess?’ I know, I’m semi-embarrassed just typing the words. Minneapolis is basically micro-brewery paradise. Who needs watered down mass produced crap when you have literally dozens of delicious micro-brews at your fingertips?

Slaughterhouse turned micro-brewery

Slaughterhouse turned micro-brewery

We didn’t spend a lot of time at the brewery, but it was great! They had a food market, local artists displaying their work, live bands, and of course, tons of beer. It was such a lively atmosphere and I’m glad we went. I think a tour of the brewery might be in our future.

Perfect day for an open house!

Perfect day for an open house

Nothing like a live band and a brew

 

 

 

Now, for some even more exciting stuff. Christopher and I leave on Saturday for Side, Turkey! I’m so excited I can hardly contain myself! This will be my first trip to Turkey and Christopher’s fifth. Despite how expensive Sweden is, the round-trip flight and a week at the hotel is costing me less than I paid to fly home for Thanksgiving last year… so that’s awesome! Christopher’s parents have been in Turkey the last two weeks and have sent us some spectacular pictures- thanks for sending these!

Hotel where we'll be staying

Hotel where we’ll be staying

Not only am I looking forward to soaking up the sun on a Southern Mediterranean beach, I’m just as excited to explore the ancient Greek city that dates back to 700 B.C. I mean, Alexander the Great used to occupy Side and the great ruins are among the most notable in Asia Minor. I’m counting down the minutes until I’m there!

Looks like paradise to me!

Looks like paradise to me!

A Day in Denmark

Last Saturday, Christopher and I took a day trip to Helsingborg’s sister city in Denmark, Helsingør. We boarded the ferry and 20 minutes and two Danish sausages later, we were in Denmark! I remember thinking how cool it was that I could drive through three states in a couple of hours when I lived on the East Coast for two summers during college. I can hardly wrap my mind around being in another country in 20 minutes. On top of that, I didn’t need to show my passport to anyone. The concept that I could travel freely and not prove who I am and that I’m allowed to be in this particular country confounded me.

View of Helsingborg from the ferry

View of Helsingborg from the ferry

Helsingør, Denmark

Helsingør, Denmark

 

 

 

Helsingør is a very cute little town with old buildings and cobblestone streets. Christopher told me Helsingør was also full of cheese shops and it did not disappoint! You don’t need to know me well to know that I love cheese. As a cheese connoisseur, these shops were like walking into a dream. There were wheels of cheese as big as tables! There were also several different kinds of flavored gouda, including pesto gouda. It was a horrific green color but I bet it tasted pretty amazing.

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Checking out Helsingør!

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Ferry station

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Such a cute town!

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Shopping street

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Cobblestone streets

 

CHEESE!!!

CHEESE!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also checked out Kronborg Castle. Besides my love for old buildings and medieval towns, I really love going to palaces, castles and fortresses. Last summer, I toured the Royal Palace in Stockholm and Akershus Fortress in Oslo, as well as did some site-seeing on the grounds of the Royal Palace in Oslo. Of course, I couldn’t wait to add another castle to the list!

Since I can’t read Danish, here is a brief history of Kronborg Castle courtesy of Wikipedia. The castle was built by King Eric VII and dates back to the 1420s. For all you history buffs out there, that is before Columbus ‘discovered’ the Americas. The castle, along with Kärnan fortress on the Swedish side of Øresund sound, controlled the entrance of the Baltic Sea. Over the last several hundred years, it was remodeled, burnt down and rebuilt by various kings and then became army barracks. After the army left the castle, it was renovated and opened to the public so people like me can wander around and be excited about really old stuff!

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Entrance of Kronborg Castle

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Kronborg Castle

 

 

 

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When small became smaller…

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So many swans in the land of Hans Christian Andersen

 

 

 

 

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Tower at Kronborg Castle